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Posts Tagged ‘tropics’

There was the most delicious smell in the air yesterday, and I don’t know what it was. I walked down my road past the goats, sheep, ducks, huge frogs in a little pond, avocado trees, banana trees, towering row of palms, and turned left after the eucalyptus grove on to a dirt path. I followed the path past the friendly cows, with horns and without (a lot a subsistence farming goes on in the jungle, if you haven’t already figured that out) that sometimes come over to say hello and check out the twins. They have shiny light brown or black coats and big soulful eyes and in the midday sun they rest in the shade near the scarecrow and look at me like I’ve crazy for being out. The dirt path is at an incline that Jungledad whines about sometimes but I don’t mind at all. For some reason that incline bothers him where the other, steeper hills do not. The hill I bitch about is a real 90 degree killer that comes much later in the walk.

Anyhoo, just past the heifers I took a left, starting up a steep but brief hill on a smooth path. After just a little way I could see tall hills all around, covered in bright green jungle vegetation. The view kind of reminds me of Macchu Picchu, minus the ruins. The hills, mountains, and volcanoes are such a weird curvy shape on top, kind of lumpy like dough that’s just fallen off a wooden spoon. The vegetation on those hills has quite a structure. Is so dense, so large there are no spaces anywhere, no bald spots. The green on the trees is billowy like clouds, like cotton balls. It makes the mountains look much more 3 dimensional, like they’re one big breathing creature. They’d be insanely hard to paint. I don’t know how I’d paint them without them looking crazy.

The exception is the smoking volcano. The view is excellent from that particular hill, boy that thing is smokin! It does have a bald head and I’m assuming all the sulfurous fumes have something to do with it. The other exception is the bloody great volcano that takes up most of the island. Its so tall that when I fly to other islands the planes fly below its summit. No trees up there! No lava either though- very dormant, or so we hope. That’s where Jungledad disappears to for a week or so each month. Despite its gargantuan size it usually stays hidden from view during our walks. There always see to be clouds thataway, and always clear the other way, toward the ocean. The hill comes to a point, then starts to go down very steeply. There are beautiful sweeping views of the ocean and town below from the slope of the hill, and that’s where I smelled the amazing smell, and I still don’t know what it was. It was like the most delicious food I’ve ever tasted, but I don’t think it was food, or anything like food. I don’t know what it was. It must have been some strange tropical jungle smell I hadn’t encountered before, and I’m having a really hard time describing it. It was one of those scents you can’t ignore, like how a strawberry field smells when the fruit starts bursting and you can’t stop tasting the air and wondering if the actual berry could taste anywhere near as good as it smells. It was that kind of smell, but it wasn’t strawberries, or thimbleberries, or rumbutans or any other kind of berry like thing that grows here. It was deeper, bolder, like it wasn’t on the air, it was the air. Like how the Atlantic smells in a harbor town on the right kind of morning, when the seaweed and fish and car exhaust aren’t confusing everything and all you can really smell the ocean and sand as they are, and the scent is clean and beautiful and timeless in a way that makes you think you could just slip back into the fog twenty years to when you played on the shore with your plastic pail and shovel digging holes the tide always filled right away and prying snails off the granite sides of tidal pools. Like that. That type of smell.

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I feel like I’m on an anthropology expedition, the peeps here are so weird. I guess everyone’s weird on vacation. I met a real meanie/weirdo yesterday at the pool. The pool is a whole blog entry of its own. Its made to look like a lagoon (everything here is made to look like something else), with waterfalls and various ponds, etc. There are little tent-like things around the perimeter of the pool that can be reserved for a cazillion dollars. If you can’t afford this, you use the few and far between hotel umbrellas. Each umbrella has four chairs, two facing one way, and two facing the other. All the umbrella seats were chalk full except one, where a lone lady was sitting. I asked her if the seats on the opposite side were taken, and she gave me a snooty look, eyed the twins like they were aliens, and reluctantly said no in a way that made it clear she did not want us there. What evs, she doesn’t own the pool, and she can rent a tent if she’s so damn posh, and there were no other seats, so we sat down. The girls were good as gold, barely a peep, but she still kept turning around, giving us the eye, which we ignored. Then out of the blue she turns around and says that soon the sun will be shifting and she’ll have push her husband’s chair back, thus pushing us out from under the umbrella, because of his “skin condition.” Her husband wasn’t there at the time, he was frolicking in the pool, in the midday sun. Nice. When he did return they made a big show of covering all his skin with towels. This was weird and unnecessary because 1) he was in complete shade already, and 2) he obviously did not have a serious skin condition. I’ve met people with major skin/sun issues, and they don’t book vacations in the tropics and frolic, wet and shiny, in the midday sun. Good grief.

The girls and I did have fun at Tiffany’s though. I was taking them for a walk hoping to settle them down, and started totally overheating in the sun. I decided to find us some AC. All the stores were fancy shmancy and intimidating, so I thought why not go straight to the top, and marched into Tiffany’s. It was nice and cool and dark and sparkly. The girls were a big hit, everyone thought they were adorable. I was shown lots of shiny pretty things for babies and big girls that I will never be able to afford, but had a grand old time looking at anyway.

Life is so funny that way. The ladies at Tiffany’s weren’t snooty at all, they would totally have shared their umbrellas without complaint. Just goes to show you……

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Jungle Mom has left the jungle, but only temporarily and with great resistance. I’ve been taken against my will to the other side of the island, the sunny, dry, non-jungle side. I’m writing this from a resort, though I consider resorts to be the antithesis of who I am. I feel like Alice in Wonderland and not in a good way. Could really do with one of her magic pills to help me deal with how surreal it all is. I feel like I’m in one of those overexposed palm trees at sunset postcards where every grain of sand is perfectly positioned and a pair of flip flops carefully arranged to look haphazardly thrown, “Wish you were here!” sprayed across the image like dog pee.

The beach in front of the hotel is manicured like a golf course. Actually, the hotel sits in a mini golf course like pseudo village. All the buildings are baige and made of the same materials. The trees are perfectly pruned and look like they don’t belong in the landscape they’ve been dropped into (like me!). The stores are Louis Vuitton or the like, when everyone on the island shops at walmart. Of course, there are no locals here. The surrounding area is a volcanic wasteland. Its kind of cool actually.

Driving up to the resort, the ground is black. There’s almost nothing in the way of vegetation, a few scrubs here and there. There are high banks on both sides of the road. They reminded me of snowbanks, though they must be the opposite, as they’re made of volanic ash. There’s a charming sort of graffiti going on there. People spell out names and messages in white stones on the black banks and surrounding land. Its so striking, those white stones popping out of the darkness. I thought they were grave markers initially, or accident site indicators (that really freaked me out), but when I read enough of the names and messages I realized that they were just that, names and messages. Silly things, impulsive things, like planting a big kiss and running away. Some of the rocks had scattered, probably by the wind, and I wondered what they said, what it was about them that made them disappear when all the others stayed. I also kept wondering if we were going the wrong way, I mean there was nothing, nothing. No signs of life in any direction, like driving to nowhere, coming from nowhere. Then out of the blue, you reach the coast and all these palm trees and green lawns and baige buildings pop up like pop tarts, all artificial and processed, and tasting of cardboard.

I’m whining about it, but a lot of the tourists seem to love it here. I suppose if you never step off the golf course its easier to believe this crap. I get the impression this is what people are picturing when they get all googly eyed after I tell them where I live. They’re picturing this crazy resort, where palm trees grow in perfect rows and nothing bears any resemblence to where and how people on this island actually live.

We’re here on business, kind of. My husband and several of his co-workers have been sent here on a brainwashing, I mean, “leadership” or “effectiveness” course or something, run by a group banned by the French government for being a dangerous cult. Not that the French are always the most reasonable of people, but I side with them on this one. The whole thing sounds crackers to me. The instructors will really have they’re work cut out for them trying to brainwash, I mean educate, a room full of scientist with all this fruit loopie. I hope they don’t know what they’re doing, because if they do know, it will probably take me hours to de-bug Jungledad tonight and lord knows I’ve got better things to do.

Anyway, as an extra bonus, here is J.K. Rawling’s Harvard commencement speech, forwarded to me by a friend. I’ve never read any Potters, but I respect all she’s achieved, and I really like the speech.

    The Fringe Benefits of Failure, and the

    Importance of Imagination

    June 5, 2008

    J.K. Rowling, author of the best-selling Harry Potter book series, delivers her Commencement Address, “The Fringe Benefits of Failure, and the Importance of Imagination,” at the Annual Meeting of the Harvard Alumni Association.

    Text as prepared follows.
    Copyright of JK Rowling, June 2008

    President Faust, members of the Harvard Corporation and the Board of Overseers, members of the faculty, proud parents, and, above all, graduates.

    The first thing I would like to say is thank you. Not only has Harvard given me an extraordinary honour, but the weeks of fear and nausea Ive experienced at the thought of giving this commencement address have made me lose weight. A win-win situation! Now all I have to do is take deep breaths, squint at the red banners and fool myself into believing I am at the worlds best-educated Harry Potter convention.

    Delivering a commencement address is a great responsibility; or so I thought until I cast my mind back to my own graduation. The commencement speaker that day was the distinguished British philosopher Baroness Mary Warnock. Reflecting on her speech has helped me enormously in writing this one, because it turns out that I cant remember a single word she said. This liberating discovery enables me to proceed without any fear that I might inadvertently influence you to abandon promising careers in business, law or politics for the giddy delights of becoming a gay wizard.

    You see? If all you remember in years to come is the gay wizard joke, Ive still come out ahead of Baroness Mary Warnock. Achievable goals: the first step towards personal improvement.

    Actually, I have wracked my mind and heart for what I ought to say to you today. I have asked myself what I wish I had known at my own graduation, and what important lessons I have learned in the 21 years that has expired between that day and this.

    I have come up with two answers. On this wonderful day when we are gathered together to celebrate your academic success, I have decided to talk to you about the benefits of failure. And as you stand on the threshold of what is sometimes called real life, I want to extol the crucial importance of imagination.

    These might seem quixotic or paradoxical choices, but please bear with me.

    Looking back at the 21-year-old that I was at graduation, is a slightly uncomfortable experience for the 42-year-old that she has become. Half my lifetime ago, I was striking an uneasy balance between the ambition I had for myself, and what those closest to me expected of me.

    I was convinced that the only thing I wanted to do, ever, was to write novels. However, my parents, both of whom came from impoverished backgrounds and neither of whom had been to college, took the view that my overactive imagination was an amusing personal quirk that could never pay a mortgage, or secure a pension.

    They had hoped that I would take a vocational degree; I wanted to study English Literature. A compromise was reached that in retrospect satisfied nobody, and I went up to study Modern Languages. Hardly had my parents car rounded the corner at the end of the road than I ditched German and scuttled off down the Classics corridor.

    I cannot remember telling my parents that I was studying Classics; they might well have found out for the first time on graduation day. Of all subjects on this planet, I think they would have been hard put to name one less useful than Greek mythology when it came to securing the keys to an executive bathroom.

    I would like to make it clear, in parenthesis, that I do not blame my parents for their point of view. There is an expiry date on blaming your parents for steering you in the wrong direction; the moment you are old enough to take the wheel, responsibility lies with you. What is more, I cannot criticise my parents for hoping that I would never experience poverty. They had been poor themselves, and I have since been poor, and I quite agree with them that it is not an ennobling experience. Poverty entails fear, and stress, and sometimes depression; it means a thousand petty humiliations and hardships. Climbing out of poverty by your own efforts, that is indeed something on which to pride yourself, but poverty itself is romanticised only by fools.

    What I feared most for myself at your age was not poverty, but failure.

    At your age, in spite of a distinct lack of motivation at university, where I had spent far too long in the coffee bar writing stories, and far too little time at lectures, I had a knack for passing examinations, and that, for years, had been the measure of success in my life and that of my peers.

    I am not dull enough to suppose that because you are young, gifted and well-educated, you have never known hardship or heartbreak. Talent and intelligence never yet inoculated anyone against the caprice of the Fates, and I do not for a moment suppose that everyone here has enjoyed an existence of unruffled privilege and contentment.

    However, the fact that you are graduating from Harvard suggests that you are not very well-acquainted with failure. You might be driven by a fear of failure quite as much as a desire for success. Indeed, your conception of failure might not be too far from the average persons idea of success, so high have you already flown academically.

    Ultimately, we all have to decide for ourselves what constitutes failure, but the world is quite eager to give you a set of criteria if you let it. So I think it fair to say that by any conventional measure, a mere seven years after my graduation day, I had failed on an epic scale. An exceptionally short-lived marriage had imploded, and I was jobless, a lone parent, and as poor as it is possible to be in modern Britain, without being homeless. The fears my parents had had for me, and that I had had for myself, had both come to pass, and by every usual standard, I was the biggest failure I knew.

    Now, I am not going to stand here and tell you that failure is fun. That period of my life was a dark one, and I had no idea that there was going to be what the press has since represented as a kind of fairy tale resolution. I had no idea how far the tunnel extended, and for a long time, any light at the end of it was a hope rather than a reality.

    So why do I talk about the benefits of failure? Simply because failure meant a stripping away of the inessential. I stopped pretending to myself that I was anything other than what I was, and began to direct all my energy into finishing the only work that mattered to me. Had I really succeeded at anything else, I might never have found the determination to succeed in the one arena I believed I truly belonged. I was set free, because my greatest fear had already been realised, and I was still alive, and I still had a daughter whom I adored, and I had an old typewriter and a big idea. And so rock bottom became the solid foundation on which I rebuilt my life.

    You might never fail on the scale I did, but some failure in life is inevitable. It is impossible to live without failing at something, unless you live so cautiously that you might as well not have lived at all – in which case, you fail by default.

    Failure gave me an inner security that I had never attained by passing examinations. Failure taught me things about myself that I could have learned no other way. I discovered that I had a strong will, and more discipline than I had suspected; I also found out that I had friends whose value was truly above rubies.

    The knowledge that you have emerged wiser and stronger from setbacks means that you are, ever after, secure in your ability to survive. You will never truly know yourself, or the strength of your relationships, until both have been tested by adversity. Such knowledge is a true gift, for all that it is painfully won, and it has been worth more to me than any qualification I ever earned.

    Given a time machine or a Time Turner, I would tell my 21-year-old self that personal happiness lies in knowing that life is not a check-list of acquisition or achievement. Your qualifications, your CV, are not your life, though you will meet many people of my age and older who confuse the two. Life is difficult, and complicated, and beyond anyones total control, and the humility to know that will enable you to survive its vicissitudes.

    You might think that I chose my second theme, the importance of imagination, because of the part it played in rebuilding my life, but that is not wholly so. Though I will defend the value of bedtime stories to my last gasp, I have learned to value imagination in a much broader sense. Imagination is not only the uniquely human capacity to envision that which is not, and therefore the fount of all invention and innovation. In its arguably most transformative and revelatory capacity, it is the power that enables us to empathise with humans whose experiences we have never shared.

    One of the greatest formative experiences of my life preceded Harry Potter, though it informed much of what I subsequently wrote in those books. This revelation came in the form of one of my earliest day jobs. Though I was sloping off to write stories during my lunch hours, I paid the rent in my early 20s by working in the research department at Amnesty Internationals headquarters in London.

    There in my little office I read hastily scribbled letters smuggled out of totalitarian regimes by men and women who were risking imprisonment to inform the outside world of what was happening to them. I saw photographs of those who had disappeared without trace, sent to Amnesty by their desperate families and friends. I read the testimony of torture victims and saw pictures of their injuries. I opened handwritten, eye-witness accounts of summary trials and executions, of kidnappings and rapes.

    Many of my co-workers were ex-political prisoners, people who had been displaced from their homes, or fled into exile, because they had the temerity to think independently of their government. Visitors to our office included those who had come to give information, or to try and find out what had happened to those they had been forced to leave behind.

    I shall never forget the African torture victim, a young man no older than I was at the time, who had become mentally ill after all he had endured in his homeland. He trembled uncontrollably as he spoke into a video camera about the brutality inflicted upon him. He was a foot taller than I was, and seemed as fragile as a child. I was given the job of escorting him to the Underground Station afterwards, and this man whose life had been shattered by cruelty took my hand with exquisite courtesy, and wished me future happiness.

    And as long as I live I shall remember walking along an empty corridor and suddenly hearing, from behind a closed door, a scream of pain and horror such as I have never heard since. The door opened, and the researcher poked out her head and told me to run and make a hot drink for the young man sitting with her. She had just given him the news that in retaliation for his own outspokenness against his countrys regime, his mother had been seized and executed.

    Every day of my working week in my early 20s I was reminded how incredibly fortunate I was, to live in a country with a democratically elected government, where legal representation and a public trial were the rights of everyone.

    Every day, I saw more evidence about the evils humankind will inflict on their fellow humans, to gain or maintain power. I began to have nightmares, literal nightmares, about some of the things I saw, heard and read.

    And yet I also learned more about human goodness at Amnesty International than I had ever known before.

    Amnesty mobilises thousands of people who have never been tortured or imprisoned for their beliefs to act on behalf of those who have. The power of human empathy, leading to collective action, saves lives, and frees prisoners. Ordinary people, whose personal well-being and security are assured, join together in huge numbers to save people they do not know, and will never meet. My small participation in that process was one of the most humbling and inspiring experiences of my life.

    Unlike any other creature on this planet, humans can learn and understand, without having experienced. They can think themselves into other peoples minds, imagine themselves into other peoples places.

    Of course, this is a power, like my brand of fictional magic, that is morally neutral. One might use such an ability to manipulate, or control, just as much as to understand or sympathise.

    And many prefer not to exercise their imaginations at all. They choose to remain comfortably within the bounds of their own experience, never troubling to wonder how it would feel to have been born other than they are. They can refuse to hear screams or to peer inside cages; they can close their minds and hearts to any suffering that does not touch them personally; they can refuse to know.

    I might be tempted to envy people who can live that way, except that I do not think they have any fewer nightmares than I do. Choosing to live in narrow spaces can lead to a form of mental agoraphobia, and that brings its own terrors. I think the wilfully unimaginative see more monsters. They are often more afraid.

    What is more, those who choose not to empathise may enable real monsters. For without ever committing an act of outright evil ourselves, we collude with it, through our own apathy.

    One of the many things I learned at the end of that Classics corridor down which I ventured at the age of 18, in search of something I could not then define, was this, written by the Greek author Plutarch: What we achieve inwardly will change outer reality.

    That is an astonishing statement and yet proven a thousand times every day of our lives. It expresses, in part, our inescapable connection with the outside world, the fact that we touch other peoples lives simply by existing.

    But how much more are you, Harvard graduates of 2008, likely to touch other peoples lives? Your intelligence, your capacity for hard work, the education you have earned and received, give you unique status, and unique responsibilities. Even your nationality sets you apart. The great majority of you belong to the worlds only remaining superpower. The way you vote, the way you live, the way you protest, the pressure you bring to bear on your government, has an impact way beyond your borders. That is your privilege, and your burden.

    If you choose to use your status and influence to raise your voice on behalf of those who have no voice; if you choose to identify not only with the powerful, but with the powerless; if you retain the ability to imagine yourself into the lives of those who do not have your advantages, then it will not only be your proud families who celebrate your existence, but thousands and millions of people whose reality you have helped transform for the better. We do not need magic to change the world, we carry all the power we need inside ourselves already: we have the power to imagine better.

    I am nearly finished. I have one last hope for you, which is something that I already had at 21. The friends with whom I sat on graduation day have been my friends for life. They are my childrens godparents, the people to whom Ive been able to turn in times of trouble, friends who have been kind enough not to sue me when Ive used their names for Death Eaters. At our graduation we were bound by enormous affection, by our shared experience of a time that could never come again, and, of course, by the knowledge that we held certain photographic evidence that would be exceptionally valuable if any of us ran for Prime Minister.

    So today, I can wish you nothing better than similar friendships. And tomorrow, I hope that even if you remember not a single word of mine, you remember those of Seneca, another of those old Romans I met when I fled down the Classics corridor, in retreat from career ladders, in search of ancient wisdom:
    As is a tale, so is life: not how long it is, but how good it is, is what matters.
    I wish you all very good liv
    es.
    Thank you very much.

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House guests are a funny thing, and jungle house guests are even funnier.

Back in New England my experiences with house guests were mixed, but often resulted with the guest or guests eating all my food and insulting my kitten. House guests are like that. Here in the jungle, its a new set of rules. In New England you can just direct people to museums, tourist activities, etc. Stick em on public transport and say ‘have fun!’ This doesn’t happen in the jungle. Public transport? You’ve got to be kidding. On this island, fun involves trekking through the jungle, braving big surf, and balancing on lava flows.

Ever since our friend T arrived, Jungledad and I have been beyond exhausted, but this is a good thing. We normally don’t go to botanical gardens, beaches, jungle hikes, waterfalls, volcanic eruptions, etc., every day. Or hardly ever. It takes so much time to get the twins ready and pack up all their paraphernalia for such expeditions, that its hard to psyche ourselves up for it, even if only once a week. Okay, once every two weeks. We normally talk ourselves into just taking them for a long walk or to the coffee shop in town. It was easy to justify because they slept through everything anyway, and were too small for those nifty baby bjorn type things (our top pic is the “ergo,” by the way), which meant we had to lug around their car seats, which weigh about 10,000 lbs each. But now they’re bigger. They stay awake for periods of time in the wide wide world. They fit in nifty kangaroo pouchey things. They are mobile.

Of course, everyday is a little extreme and obviously not sustainable when my husband goes back to work on Monday, but this insane schedule has opened our eyes to what is now possible. We hiked to not one, but two big beautiful waterfalls yesterday, and bought out the farmer’s market, and made a huge delicious tropical dinner with local ingredients. The girls loved it. They started to really look at things for the first time: banyan trees, birds of paradise, bloody great waterfalls. They were awake, interested even! It was great, not only for the twins, but also for me, because I made T carry a baby at all times, substantially lightening my load, and also affording me the opportunity to tell everyone we met that T and my husband were the “parents,” and I was just the “gestational carrier.” I might have been the only one that found it funny, but I found it funny enough for all of us! It killed me to see peoples faces. And the boys were good sports. I have my morale to keep up, after all.

Okay, gotta wrap it up, but I’ll leave you with my ‘raising twins in the jungle tip of the day!’ This is a new thing I’m starting, to amuse myself, if no one else. Here goes!

As you might expect, there are very few toy stores in the jungle (go figure!) and the one that does exist is vastly overpriced because the toys have to be shipped from the ends of the earth, to the mainland, then to our end of the earth, and man, all the toxic lead inside those toys is heavy! Fuel costs, yo. So- here’s a fun toy you can make that will keep not one, but two babies entertained for a period of time. Buy a skinny wooden dowel. Then take a knife, or other sharp implement, and carve little divots in one end of the dowel. Tie a colorful ribbon in each divot, and presto! a fun ribbon stick like those favored by medieval peasants circling maypoles.

The ribbon stick is awesome because you can wave it around your infant twins and they will instantly be distracted from their crying or eating cardboard or other unfavorable activity, and watch the ribbons with great interest. Shaking the ribbons frantically right in front of their faces, or on top of their bellies, or dragging slowing over the tops of their heads are all recommended because they result in the delighted squeals of happy babies. Also recommend letting them grab the ribbons, bite the ribbons, etc. They love it and its good for them. And you.

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There is a large department store on this island, everyone in America knows its name. We’ve all been there too. Its huge, its sprawling, its everywhere in the States, and I used to be extremely snooty about it. I don’t shop there, I’d say. That store is what’s wrong with America. That was back when I was in New England, living the pastey-white urban lifestyle often (and rightfully) poked fun of in “Stuff White People Like,” (a truly excellent idea/blog/book: http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.com/). A lifestyle of NPR and David Sedaris, free-trade coffee, and not owning a TV.

But back to the store. This store is the pulse, blood, and heartbeat of the island. Were this evil chain store ever to close, there would be mayhem in the streets, riots, looting, burning effigies, anarchy rule, 12 plagues, 4 horsemen of the apocalypse, earthquakes, spouting lava, monsoons, (okay, we already have the last 3 frequently, but they’d be worse) hell fury, zombies rising from the dead, civil war, hunger strikes, and cannibalism. And I would be leading it all!

Were it not for this evil chain store, my baby girl twins would be crawling naked through the jungle for lack of clothes. We would be supplementing my breastmilk with coconut milk rather than formula. They would be sucking sugarcane instead of binkies. They would sleep on the floor, for lack of a crib, wrapped in palm leaves rather than blankets. They would play with lizards and giant poisonous centipedes instead of toys. They would ride mongooses rather than bounce in their boucy chairs. Their diapers would be made of scratchy coconut husks…….

You get the picture. I will never again be snooty about big chain stores. Are they free trade? Hells no. Soul-less? Sometimes. Exploitive of cheap labor in third world countries? Youbetcha. Predatory? Often. Necessary? Absolutely. Junglemom has learned her lesson.

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There have been rumors of pineapple theft circling the neighborhood. That’s what passes for crime/news around here. Our next door neighbors have been hit on multiple occasions.  I’m outraged on their behalf because pineapples are really difficult to grow (I’ve heard). They don’t grow on trees you know! Ha, bet you didn’t know that. I was positive they grew on trees before I moved here, but no- they grow on the ground in large plants that look a lot like giant aloes to me, minus the prickles. My neighbor has a whole field of them. Er…………….had. Naw, just kidding- still has. Given the size and shape of pineapples, its pretty hard to make off with too many on foot. Not that I’d know. Not cool to take even one though, because planting them is quite a process. My neighbor told me all about it, and I wish I had paid closer attention so I could explain it to you. Just believe me when I tell you its complicated.

Another cool thing I’ve learned about tropical produce: coconut milk is not white! No sir! I buy fresh coconut at the farmer’s market, and a nice young man splits one open for me with a machete and sticks a straw in it so I can drink the delicious milk, which is not white, but crystal clear. If its white, its either really old coconut, or stuffs been added.

If you’re going to the farmer’s market in town, its always a good idea to bring babies, because people will give you free or extra food. “For baby!” Of course, there is a price to pay. They get to comment on the babies, and some of the comments are pretty weird. People here don’t really know what to make of twins, there just aren’t many twins on the island. Or indeed any! Well….there probably are other twins on the island, but I’ve never seen any. Not that I get out much. Or steal any pineapples when I do get out. Who said that? Ha ha, just kidding. Anyway, the most common reaction I get is: “One is dark and one is light! Why is this?” I’m always tempted to say, “They have different fathers! 5 papayas please.” Is that even medically possible? I don’t know, but I bet I could get people to believe me. Hey, if it works for cats!

Aside from both having blue eyes, the twinnies look nothing alike. Mumu looks like several of my family members- very light strawberry blond hair, very fair skin. Lulu has dark hair and skin that looks like most caucasian skin, maybe a touch olivey, but not really- its pretty much just because Mumu’s skin is translucent that hers looks darker. She looks like her Daddy. Hmmmm, what other differences? Let me think. Mumu has developed a wonderfully goofy laugh, and a fun squeal, and she burps like a frat boy. Barfs like one too! Her toothless smile is huge, it takes up her whole face and its impossible not to laugh when you see it, even if you’ve only had 2 hours of sleep.

Lulu has quite a distinct (and I would say heart-wrenching) cry that everyone else seems to find adorable (from afar). She kicks her legs frantically when she gets excited, loves to be tossed in the air, and looks very intently at people, so much so that my mother accuses her of “looking into peoples souls.”

They are the best pair ever, even better than fresh pineapple and coconut.

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I made the most gruesome discovery yesterday. No, not tropical flying jungle cockroaches this time.

I was about to make coffee (life’s blood when in times of temporary single-parenthood) when I noticed the coffeemaker smelled a little funky. After a bit of sniffing I zeroed in on the coffee pot itself. I unscrewed the top and didn’t notice anything right off, so I rinsed it and smelled again. Still there. Then I noticed some little white specks on the inside of the pot lid. Hey- wait a minute, those specks are moving! maggots!!! little maggots!!!!! crawling inside the pot too- ewwwwwwwww! Gag, dry-heave, scream- disgusting!!!!! You know what this means. This means Jungledad, who is the designated coffee maker (as I am the designated nurser) has been doing his slutty habit of just rinsing, not washing, the coffee pot in between uses. This is slutty indeed. I bet he’d never notice the smell either. Who knows how long this has been going on? If he hadn’t gone up to the volcano, forcing me to have to make coffee (and care for the twins alone, which makes me need coffee) myself, I would be drinking maggot coffee for months! Maybe I have been drinking maggot coffee for months! Maybe the occasional nausea I’ve attributed to too much coffee is actually due to the maggot content of my coffee. Well, maybe there’s a silver lining there…..

I’ve been freaking myself out for weeks because of this nausea- thinking its morning sickness. Its not, it must be maggot sickness! Hooray! I’m sure I sound like a terrible person to say I would rather have little worms inside me at this point than a new precious baby, but hear me out. Jungletwins are kicking my ass. With Jungledad away for work they are kicking my ass overtime. I love them to bits, I love all babies, I would love to have more babies. But not now. Not with my C-section scar barely healed, the memory of my 5 wk say in the hospital prior to their birth (due to unpleasant complications) still fresh in my mind. No jungle triplets please. Don’t worry, there is none. I’m not pregnant, just irrational. If Jungledad had managed to power through birth control and impregnate with babies, then worms, back to back, I would tell him to stay on that bloody volcano.

Moving on. Despite the many mold/maggot/large insect issues one finds living in the tropics, there are some pretty wonderful things about being here. As bad as my coffee pot smelled is as good as it smells outside. It smells amazing outside- there are wild flowers blooming all year round. The flowers are everywhere- bright, huge. Wild ginger smells the best- I can’t get enough of it. I took the girls for a long walk yesterday and the and there were huge ginger plants lining the path. Mmmmmm. It was a clear day and we could see everything: the volcano puffing, the town below, the Pacific wrapping all the way around. Everything was bright, glittering, silent. It was warm and not too hot, with tradewinds bringing in a lovely breeze. Its never too cold to walk, any time of year, and that’s an amazing thing for a girl from New England. There are always flowers. Flowers in December. Fresh fruits all year round. Picking delicious bananas from a tree on your front lawn- very cool.

Better wrap it up. Lulu is starting to get restless. Lulu is the most demanding/most delightful baby in the world. When she’s happy (like after she’s done a huge poop), she makes all manner of charming facial expressions. She wiggles and dances, coos and batts her eyes and this is all devastatingly cute. When she’s not happy- hold on to your f-ing hat! Speaking of, better leave now before she goes there.

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Until I moved to this island, I had never in my life seen a cockroach. My experience with bugs was very limited. There aren’t many bugs in New England, its too damn cold most of the time. And indoor bugs? Forget it! My mother ran too tight a ship for that. In childhood, my 4 siblings and I had somewhat of a Von Trapp like existence (before Frauline Maria showed up) of complete discipline and an unwavering schedule. After school each day we would clean the house from top to bottom- dust, sweep, polish, vacuum, fold laundry, etc, except on weekends, when we would be roused out of bed early to do the “real cleaning.” This included removing all the cushions from the sofa to vacuum them individually, waxing the floors, and saying whenever prompted, “We love you, Miss Hannigan!” Ha ha- okay, not the last part, but the point is, even in the height of summer an insect would never dare to put its little toe on any of my mother’s immaculately cleaned surfaces.

This upbringing left we woefully unprepared for life in the tropics. Of course, nothing really prepares you for the sight of your husband chasing a flying cockroach, that’s right, a FLYING cockroach around your living room armed with only a swiffer sweeper and an industrial stapler. From the study, I could hear the ping ping of staples going into the wall. “What are you trying to do?” I yelled, “mount it to the wall?”  

“I’ve got 3 staples in it already” he yelled back, “But it just won’t die!”  We strategized, decided the roach must be staple-proof, and my husband went back to trying to beat it to death with the swiffer sweeper. This too proved inadequate. The roach continued to flutter about our curtains, mocking us, full of staples but not at all inhibited, until we busted out the secret weapon: a sticky pest trap. Yea, that’s right. We peeled the trap open and lobbed it at the curtain, (custard pie to the face style, yo)  immobilizing the roach once and for all. Victory was ours! Man it was hard to peel that sucker off the curtain, and the gauzy white chiffon will never be the same again, but the winged menace was put down once and for all. 

Where were my darling little baby girl twins during all this commotion? Blissfully asleep in the bedroom, oblivious to it all. Of course, they’ll probably grow up thinking that flying cockroaches are no big deal, nor are foot long centipedes, or the crunch crunch sound your cat makes eating a lizard- all humdrum stuff to folks around here. It takes a lot to faze the locals on this island. Insane is the new normal. 

“How often are there earthquakes?” I asked when I first arrived. The question was returned with a funny look. “What do you mean? They never stop.” 

“Can we look at houses not so near volcanos?” I asked my realtor. 

“But the whole island is a volcano,” she responded.

So you compromise. You buy sticky traps. You buy less cat food. You buy a house, but avoid the active lava flows. You tell your babies that all of this is normal, because for them it is normal, and that’s a beautiful thing.

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The twins have a real problem with neck cheese, its been going on for ages. The problem is this: when they spit up, which is a lot, or drink from bottles and manage to get the milk to dripple down, it settles into the folds of their necks. We could just wipe it off if they had necks like regular sized people- but they don’t, they just have heads, shoulders, and big round rolls of baby fat inbetween. The milk gets so deep we have to mine way down (while said baby screams) it to get it out, and even when we succeed, it only takes one rogue dribble to put us back to square one. Once settled in the fold, the milk matures to cheese and starts to give off an odor when its ripe. I think it smells like Camembert, but my husband thinks its more like Roquefort. At harvest, it looks more like brie than anything. Because of the climate- always hot and moist, it tends to mature very quickly. We bathe the twins every day, but still have trouble keeping up with the harvest. Maybe we should sell the cheese- its organic!

The climate can be troublesome here. The good things- its never cold, there’s always fresh fruit and veg, and the constant moisture means you never need moisturizer or chapstick. The bad- everything, and I mean everything, will go moldy is you’re not careful- the furniture, the ceilings, your clothes, everything. All food must be kept in the fridge or its shelf life goes down to nothing. Some days this drives me crazy, as does the remoteness of the island, and I’m ready to pack up my moldy possessions and move back to the mainland at a moment’s notice. Other days, like the one I had a new days ago, the island just blows my little mind. We were driving home from shopping and the light was incredible. The sun was low, and the light was soft as a blanket. I hate orangey sunset pics of palm trees and ocean, but at the time, being there in person, it was so seductive, so dreamlike. The clouds had cleared out and we could see the volcano towering over the town. We could smell wild ginger in the air riding up the winding road to our little old plantation house. It used to be a one room school house and still has that particular kind of imperfect charm. That night the view of the stars was something else. When the twins fell asleep we walked out in front of the house and saw every constellation you can imagine. The tail of the scorpion was so bright.

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